A Guide For Hashers
This guide has been pulled together from various sources, both local and national. The overall format is unashamedly borrowed/stolen from Zippy TC’s “A Guide For Hares”, published by the Pikes Peak HHH. I thank him for his unknowing contribution to this effort. Various Hash websites contributing to this guide also include the White House Hash, (WH4); Over the Hump, (OTH4); the Richmond H3, and many others. If I have left anyone off and you read something and realize you wrote it, my most humble apologies. I’d love to take credit for the wisdom and knowledge tucked into the following pages, but those that know me well, know what a pile of crap that would be. I would also like to thank the numerous hashers of the 7H4 that have helped me along the way, both learning what it means to be a hasher, as well as for contributing to this guide. Many of our Home Hash Traditions are here due to their efforts. Pink Panther, Rusty pu$$y, Quality Porker, Uncle Tom’s Bitch, Light Up A Fag, Humpire, Skidmark, and anyone else whose name I have forgotten to mention. Although many of the nuggets in here are directly related to Haring Trail, it is also meant to offer explanation to the many traditions that surround the Hash as a whole.
Haring is the most important responsibility that can be entrusted to a hasher. It takes planning, insight, creativity, and yes, some panache to lay an exciting trail and establish the conditions for a great Down-Down afterward.
This guide is written based on the traditions of the 7H4 and the many hard lessons learned over the past 10+ years of hashing in and around Lynchburg. You might think that the detail contained this guide (4,000+ words) may seem to be a bit overboard (or even anal) for a group which essentially has no rules, but there's a good reason for it. Everything contained herein will help you, the hare, avert the known and avoidable pitfalls a$$ociated with haring. Simply put, no hare should be condemned to repeat the mistakes of others. But also, it is for the newer hasher to read and get familiar with the sometimes crazy things that go on in the Hash. It is in this spirit that the 7H4 Guide For Hashers is written.
- If you want to hare (and you should) you first need to coordinate with the Hare Raiser to get on the schedule. No Butt Boy is the current Hare Raiser.
- The schedule is sometimes filled a few weeks or more in advance, so plan ahead to get the date you want. You can check the Hash Trash for open dates.
- A note for virgin (first time) hares: You must have a veteran co-hare! There's no substitute for experience - you can learn much from your grizzled old partner. If you don't arrange for a suitably experienced co-hare yourself, the Hare Raiser will appoint one for you.
Planning the Hash
1. Probably the most difficult part of haring is arranging a suitable place for the Down-Downs. This; however, is not an insurmountable problem and should not dissuade you from taking your turn as a 7H4 hare. Some thoughts follow:
- a. Plan where you want to end and then plan where you want to start. There are more starting places than ending places.
- b. Start fairly close (by auto) to the end. The fewer people you have to ferry back to the start, the better. Hares have gotten in trouble this way before.
- c. There should be enough parking space at the start for everyone expected to show up. Also, make sure that it's okay to park there. Hashers seem to get pi$$ed off when they get back from the DOWN-DOWN and find that their cars have been towed. If there isn't sufficient parking space and you simply must use this location, you'll have to gather at another spot where parking is adequate and carpool or shuttle to the start. This adds a degree of complexity to the hash which isn't recommended under normal circ#mstances.
- d. While it might be warm enough to have a winter DOWN-DOWN outdoors, it's by no means guaranteed that the weather will cooperate. Therefore, you should plan arranging an indoor DOWN-DOWN site from mid-October through mid-April.
2. If ending the hash at a public establishment (bar, tavern, pub, etc.), coordinate with the owner (or manager) well in advance.
- Ask for happy hour prices (lower if possible)
- Ask about food (free munchies, menu items)
- Let the Beermeister know that you won't need a keg.
- Let the bar management know we will go through one(+) keg of beer during our stay and that in addition to beer we'll need pitchers of water and soft drinks for our designated drivers (they just might provide complimentary soft drinks).
- Get approval for an area to do hash business.
- Point out that we are a solemn, serious bunch that is never loud, rambunctious, or lewd. (And lawyers go to heaven.)
3. Plan for bad weather. More than once we've ended on a hilltop during a thunderstorm without an alternative. Therefore:
- Have an alternate indoor location in mind.
- Think about shortcuts for really bad weather or even calling off a part of the trail when the weather's too bad.
4. Theme hashes.
- While not required, themed hashes can be fun. Some traditional 7H4 theme hashes include: Cinco De Mayo, Red Dress, Halloween, and Diaper Hashes (New Year’s Day). For your hash, try to come up with something new and appropriate. Some examples: have hashers put on clothing left at checks, hide stuff around checks (scavenger hunt), well you get the idea, use your imagination.
- Caveat: If you encourage hashers to wear costumes then take them through costume shredding shiggy, they will revolt. Best costume hashes are in high visibility areas.
- Birthdays. Let's be frank, birthdays are not all that unusual, everyone has one a year. Therefore, you might want to consider a theme other than a celebration of yourself.
- Be sure to explain what's expected of the hounds at the chalk talk, or in the publicity if it entails costuming.
5. Use the “checklist for hares” to make sure that you have all the bases covered.
1. Let the Beermeister know what kind of beer support you'll need. If you plan on having a beer check and the end is in your back yard, the beer requirement for him is far different than if there's no beer check and the end is at a public establishment.
a. It's the hare's responsibility to contact the Beermeister, preferably a few weeks before the hash but certainly not later than one week before the hash. He'll need to know whether you need a keg (and where it should be delivered) and whether or not there'll be a beer check.
b. Please be considerate of the Beermeister. He's got the worst (but most important) job in the hash. Don't force him to chase you down to find out what your beer needs are.
2. If the Down-Down is at a bar, inform the Hash Cash at the start of the hash to arrange transfer of funds to pay for beer at the bar.
3. You can swap dates with another hare but you must let the Hare Raiser know. This is not to obtain permission, but simply to keep the attending confusion to the minimum.
4. Let the Hareraiser know where the hash ends before the hash begins. He'll place the DOWN-DOWN information on the Hash Hotline (434-582-8076) after the hash is well underway. This allows people who become lost on trail and those who miss the start to be able to find everyone at the Down-Down.
Note: Capitalized, the term Hash Cash refers to the person who manages the financial resources of the 7H4. When written in lower case, hash cash represents the actual financial resources (i.e., the money).
1. It's important that hares understand the use of hash cash and not unknowingly undertake expenditures which are not reimbursable. Specific guidelines follow:
- The Hash Cash collects $4.00 from each
hasher per hash, with the exception that hares do not pay. The reason hares
do not pay is that they encounter expenses which hounds do not. Such
expenses include: flour, chalk, and flyer creation/reproduction.
The Hash cost each Hasher four($4). You can stop reading now..or keep reading for more details.
The hash is about beer. Water and soda's are typically provided as a courtesy to non-drinkers and those needing other refreshments. The four($4) hash fee is set whether you drink the beer or do not drink the beer. Also, if by chance there is any left over cash, it goes into the hash cash for hash related events such as the Red Dress or Anny hash (whether you attend those events or not). So, if you have forty(40) hashers, that is one hundred and sixty($160). This is especially good poop for negotiating price breaks at the pub/bar..etc.. prior to the Hash. Dangle this monetary carrot in front of the manager's nose and haggle a little bit for reduced prices. Mentioning specific figures while negotiating beer and food prices for a mere 2-3 hours of labor usually results in lower beer prices, ergo MORE BEER. You can also add to your pitch that often the partying will continue after the designated moola is spent as the Hashers pa$$ the hat for MORE BEER. A note about providing food. The cost for providing food falls to the hares. The four($4) fee for the hash is for beer only. Sometimes the Hares can decide to do a special hash and charge more than $4 to cover food for that particular hash. The four($4) still goes to drinks, surcharge goes to Hare's cost of food (must provide receipts!), and anything left over goes to the hash cash.
- For each hash that does not end at a public establishment, the Hash Cash will fully reimburse the
Beermeister for the beer purchased for the Hash.
- For hashes which end at a public establishment, the Hash Cash will provide the hares $4.00 per person who actually paid. Example: There are 43 people at the hash including 3 hares. The Hash Cash will provide the hares $160 (40 paid hashers times $4) to spend at the bar.
i. The hash will not pay for unlimited beer. It is up to the hare to negotiate reasonable prices and to make financial settlement with the establishment. Please don't forget to figure in the serving staff's gratuity.
ii. Once the hash cash is exhausted, the hares can buy additional beer at their personal expense, or "pa$$ the hat" for donations to keep the beer flowing.
2. About food: The hash cash is used primarily to buy beer, water, and soft drinks. If more elaborate fare is desired, it is strictly at the hares' discretion and expense.
3. About "good" beer: To stretch the hash cash as far as possible, the Beermeister's selection of beer is rather pedestrian (read cheap). If the hares wish, they may of course supply higher quality (homebrew, microbrew, commercial premium) beer themselves. However, reimbursement will only be at the rate of an equivalent amount of our normal cheap beer. Example: If the hares buy a keg of Fat Tire Ale for $110, the Hash Cash will only reimburse them whatever's the going price of a keg of Busch (around $60.00 at present).
4. If you have questions, contact the Hash Cash or MisManagement..
- The most important element in any Trail is a pack to follow you. If they don’t know where to be, how much fun will that be? Once you have figured out your starting location, date, etc. let the Hareraiser know, so the information can be posted on the website, the trash, and the email list.
a. WHAT: (7H4 Hash #???)
b. WHEN: (Sunday, Month, Day, Year, @3:00 pm)
e. THEME: (If any)
f. DOG/STROLLER FRIENDLY: Yes/No
h. BRING: $3.00, a whistle, and a hashbag
i. DIRECTIONS: (if needed)
Planning the Trail
- Scout your trail early and often. This means actually running and/or walking the trail several times to get a good feel of its viability in terms of length, difficulty (shiggy), and opportunities for pleasant surprises. You can't scout a good trail from a car or off a topographic map, but both can be useful support items.
- You have to get out (hopefully with all the hares) and run the trail in its entirety at least once. That is the only way you will know you haven't set a ball-busting death march. "It looked a lot shorter on the map" is no excuse. If you're a little too lazy to run the whole thing or some of the hares are walkers, that's fine. But then you must walk the whole trail in it's entirety at least once. Top secret golden rule of hashing: if you walk your trail, including checks, BTs, etc., it will take exactly twice the time the pack will take. So ... since your trail should be 45 minutes, it should take no more than 90 minutes to walk.
- Hares are responsible for reasonable safety considerations on trail. The most dangerous hashing area (where other bastard hares have almost killed us before) are major/dangerous roadways. If you have to cross a big road, do it at a light/crosswalk and mark it clearly--avoid blind curves, hills, etc. Do not have the pack blindly running around high speed railroad tracks trying to solve some stupid check. You do need to carefully check the trail beforehand for barbed wire type hazards in woods or trails, debris or jagged metal in creek beds or tunnels. Splitting some wanker's head open on a piece of angle iron protruding from the roof of a dark tunnel would put a d@mper on your hash.
- A hash is not supposed to be a long, fast, wide-open asphalt covered road race. If you can't figure out how to get us off the street and into a park or trail or mud bog or storm sewer or landfill, you need to pick a different spot! Variety is appreciated, as are splendid vistas, soft running surfaces, thigh slicing briars and shoe-su
Trail should normally be in the 3 to 5 mile range but certainly never more than 6 miles or so. Evaluate your trail in terms of length and rate it in difficulty as indicated below. If you must plan a very long (6+ miles) trail, give advance warning to the pack so they will know what to expect. At least 2 Beer Checks will be necessary for a trail of that length, so it usually is a logistical nightmare. Plus, most of the pack will finish too tired to enjoy the Down-Down. Train for the Mountain Masochist on your own time.
Little or no shiggy, flat or only a few small hills
Some shiggy, some hills
Over 5 miles
Much shiggy, much vertical work
Once you've evaluated the trail, use the descriptions above for use in the publicity campaign for your hash. This is a simple courtesy to give the hounds some idea of what they're up against and can serve to head off later complaints about the trail.
6. Plan for a Hash Wagon to get baggage to the end and on cold (or rainy) days, to the beer check. If you need help, enlist the a$$istance of an auto hasher.
7. Don't cross private land without permission.
8. Safety: Remember that not everyone is a rock climber. Avoid the truly dangerous stuff. Examples include, but are not limited to: culverts in thunderstorm season (May-September), the U.S. 29/460 highways, and any crossing of Pink Panther’s back yard.
9. Use trails (even deer trails) to avoid d@mage to slopes, etc.
10. Include a beer check to regroup and permit the less athletic (and the lost) time to catch up to the pack.
11. Beer check: Beer Checks are nice to have on short, cool trails. REQUIRED on long trails or in hot weather.
a. Plan the logistics of the beer check carefully. You'll need to get the beer there before the FRBs arrive and clean up the area after everyone leaves. It should be a place where the hashers can enjoy a beer without getting hara$$ed. Avoid places where a group of 40-50 people drinking will draw undue attention. Out of sight under a bridge usually works fairly well.
b. You can also stash the beer, in a cooler or whatever (i.e., an unmanned beer check). If you do this, please leave a trash bag for the empties and don't forget to return and pick it up after the hash.
i. Always have sufficient drinking water available at the beer check.
ii. While it's an individual responsibility to prevent one's own dehydration (that is to carry a water bottle on trail), there should be little or no extra effort to provide water at the beer check. Hashers will use this water to both drink and to refill their water bottles.
iii. Many people prefer water on the trail and defer their beer drinking until the Down-Down. Others will enjoy a drink of water and a brew.
iv. If you say it's a dog friendly trail, you should provide enough water for both people and dogs.
v. If you provide water in bulk, also provide a means for people and animals to drink it. This mean plastic or paper cups.
vi. Again, If you need help, enlist the a$$istance of a auto hasher.
- Be creative. You're not catering to any special interest group, especially the competitive runners.
- Don't use the hash to demonstrate your superb physical fitness. The point of the hash is for both hares and hounds to have fun. As a hound, getting your d!ck knocked into the dirt simply isn't fun, no matter how amused the hare is about it all.
- Dogs: While the 7H4 certainly isn't a kennel club, a few hashers want to bring their pets to the hash. This practice is neither encouraged nor discouraged. Therefore, it's the hare's responsibility to a$$ess the trail and Down-Down as to whether or not it's "dog friendly" and include the information in the publicity release. Normally, a Down-Down at a public establishment is unsuitable for dogs and there are certain trail characteristics that make the presence of dogs impractical.
- Logistics: Hash day logistics are quite frankly a pain in the a$$, but essential to a successful event. The hare has many logistical responsibilities which if not carefully planned for can detract from the ability to lay the trail or result in delays and dry spells at the Down-Down. That the Hash wagon, beer check, ice, keg, etc. are the responsibility of the hare, it does not mean that the hare must do everything him/herself. It is perfectly acceptable to enlist the a$$istance of others to take care of logistical matters. a$$istance can come in the form of auto hashers, or even non-hashers, it really doesn't matter. What does matter is that the beer is flowing at the Down-Down when the Front Running Bastards (FRBs) arrive and that the Hash wagon is nearby and accessible.
- Four important things to not to lose sight of:
a. Actual weather conditions on the day of your hash can wreck havoc with the best laid plans.
b. Even the best laid trails can be misread or overlooked by the pack, resulting in a confused pack.
c. Once the hash starts, it's no longer in your control.
d. Every hare has a trail that will not work.
Laying the Trail
- Before laying the trail, make sure that both you and your hare partner(s) are all using the same marking conventions. Otherwise you just may confuse the hounds, get them lost and into an ugly mood. See the a$$ociated Guide to 7H4 Trail Marks.
- Don't screw with the pack by making the trail difficult to find; screw with the pack by where the trail goes. It's far better to lay a trail that's easy to find and a son of a bitch to traverse, than vice-versa. Always remember that no matter what you do, Hashers being Hashers, something will go wrong with the trail. The blatantly obvious trail marks that you and your co-Hares are convinced that even the legally blind can see can often be overlooked by the pack. Many well-laid trails have been shortened or messed up by simple oversights. Still, lay the best trail you can. Poorly laid trails have been known to result in Hares being abused at the down-down.
- a$$igning segments of the trail to different hares to lay independently is a sure recipe for disaster. The only guaranteed way to ensure a coherent trail is for all hares to lay the trail together.
- Trail Marks:
a. Use lots of flour. Use lots of flour. This can't be emphasized enough.
b. Ideally, hounds should be able to see the next mark from the last.
c. Hash marks should be placed about 25 yards or so apart. Marks should never be more than 50 yards apart
d. When bushwhacking, make marks very close together.
e. Consider alternate marking when bushwhacking, such as surveyor/engineer tape or toilet paper.
f. Mark your trail with environmentally friendly substances. That means no spray paint and remember that after the hash you must remove anything you used that the rain won't easily eradicate (e.g., surveyor/engineer tape).
g. Sidewalk chalk is great, but only when it isn't raining.
h. Don't get too clever with your marking medium. Animals just might find certain things irresistible (like Froot Loops) and eat your marks.
i. Also see the associated Guide to Hash Marks.
- If you change direction, mark the change with either an intersection or a true trail arrow. There is no requirement to lay false trails from an intersection, but there must be a true trail.
- Do not put True Trail or intersections/checks on BTs. If you don't understand that last sentence, you are not ready to hare. Make haste and get thee to a remedial trail school!
- If you lay more than 4-6 plops from an intersection/check, end your false trails with a false trail mark (BT, YBF, III), especially for pre-laid trails where a "blow job" (false trail without a false trail mark) makes little sense. This goes right along with the “checkback 20” idea. While it seems like a good idea at the time, long stretches of plops (6+) without a BT or TT generally confuse and frustrate the pack. Rather than returning to the last intersection, most of the time they will just blow through it and try to short cut. Better to give them a definite BT and make them hump it back. If the trail is scouted properly and run accordingly, the BT will work better when it is marked.
- Intersections (aka “checks”) keep packs together and Front Running Bastards (FRBs) confused. Ideally, the Dead Fu*king Last (DFLs) should reach the beer-check & Down-Down within 5 minutes or so of the FRB's. If the slower hashers say the hash was a cake-walk while the FRB's ran their a$$ off, you've done a great job. On the other hand, too many checks can be quite annoying. In this matter, trail laying is more of an art than a science. Unfortunately, you can only learn the proper balance from experience, both as hare and hound.
Checkbacks are essentially “blind” Bad Trails, that is, they are used
instead of an intersection to change the direction of trail. It is done
by laying the check back symbol, along with a number. The number
indicates how many plops of flour you want the pack to go back to find
true trail. When used effectively, checkbacks can keep a pack together.
Used too often, or carelessly, and you run the risk of the pack giving up
in frustration. Keep these tips in mind if you intend to use checkbacks
on your trail:
- Don’t checkback to an intersection. Think about it. The pack will come to the intersection before they hit the checkback, so if they fan out from the intersection, they are just as likely to find the true trail as they are the checkback.
- Don’t checkback while the walkers and runners trails are combined, unless you are checking back the entire pack. This is a simple logistics thing. If the runners are doing a checkback 10, and the walker hares come along behind them and lay one or two marks for walkers, the pack will not know the difference, and count those two plops as part of the 10. If your checkback’s chances of success hinge on your fellow hares NOT laying marks after you have gone by, don’t do it. Otherwise, Murphy’s Law will take over.
- This one sounds simple enough, but it is the #1 thing that kills a checkback: COUNT. If you want to do a checkback 7, then make sure that once you lay the checkback, there are actually 7 plops of flour back to the mark you want them to look for trail.
- Although it seems like a humorous idea when you are doing it, a “checkback 20” or “checkback 69” generally, at best, will serve only to pi$$ off the pack, at worst, you or the pack will lose count and no one will be able to find trail. The exception to this guideline that can work is a “checkback to start” or “checkback to 123 Elm St”—a specific location that the pack can easily find.
- Once you start true trail from the checkback mark, it is a good idea to make the first mark not obvious to see from the direction the pack will originally be running. Make it slightly difficult for them, but not impossible. Remember, if they have to get on their hands and knees to look for a true trail arrow you drew on an acorn, they won’t be happy. Ideal ways to mark trail is to put the flour on the back side of a tree, near eye level, opposite the direction the pack will be coming from. Once they find that mark, drop the marks as normal, and put a true trail down as quickly as possible so they know they are on trail.
- Inclement weather tips:
i. Lay your hash marks in larger than normal piles. Avoid gutters where flour is sure to get washed away.
ii. Try and find places to lay it where it won't get wet, if possible.
iii. Flour will stay around better if you lay it in clumps rather than just throwing it on the ground. If you squeeze the clump and set it down it will hold together better.
iv. In rain, flour sticks to wood (trees, fences) better than gra$$, smooth surfaces or sidewalks.
v. You really need to use a lot of flour on a wet hash because some your marks are going to get washed away no matter how good a job you do laying it.
vi. Be extra careful when laying critical marks (checks, arrows, etc.) because hounds have a hell of a time figuring out what to do in the absence of trail marks.
vii. Don't bother with chalk as it always gets washed away in the rain.
viii. If it rains after you've laid your trail, you really should recheck it before the hash starts.
i. Color your flour. Powdered Tempura paint (the kind you get from craft stores, that we used as kids in pre-school) or Jell-O powder works well to color flour, and both are non-toxic and biodegrade quickly.
ii. Hashing in deep snow takes lots of physical effort and your trail should take this fact into account and not be too long.
iii. If there's a blizzard and the Government has declared an emergency and it's illegal to drive on any public street (like in 1994), there will be no hash. This is the only exception to our scheduling philosophy of "every week, regardless of weather, year-round."
Also affectionately known as the Bastard Step-Children of the Hash. The 7H4 is graced with the presence of a substantial walking crowd almost every week. For God's sake don't pi$$ 'em off!! They are a spiteful cantankerous bunch you don't want mad at you. You have several options:
1. Lay a separate walker's trail (usually a short cut off the main trail that shaves a couple miles off)
2. Provide them with a map to the beer check and end and let them fend for themselves or
3. Have a co-hare to escort them on their merry way to the end. DO make sure they get to the beer, DON'T detour them around all the shiggy. Them sparkling white walking shoes are nauseating as hell.
4. They generally don’t like getting their hands soiled, but that shouldn’t deter you from trying to make a good trail for them, too.
- Give all special instructions to the Hashmeister at the start. Any new or different trail marks, walking/running trail splits should be communicated at this time. If the Hashmeister is confused about the directions at the start, the pack probably will be, too.
- Draw a Starting Line. Draw a True Trail arrow or drop flour in the general direction you wish the pack to go at the start. If runners and walkers separate at the start, be sure it is clearly marked.
- Hares get a 15-minute head start.
a. Hares can enlist an autohasher to assist with the Hash Wagon, if needed. The Auto Hare can:
i. Drive the Hash Wagon
ii. Facilitate the beer check, if there is one. Just be sure to give your a$$istant good directions.
1. Hare responsibilities include:
a. Getting the Hash Wagon to the Down-Down site.
b. All logistics involved with beer, soft drinks, ice, water, munchies, etc.
c. Dealing with the property owner (both public establishment and private property) in all matters financial and diplomatic.
d. In public establishments setting aside sufficient beer for the down-downs.
e. Returning people to the start to retrieve their cars.
f. Cleaning up the Down-Down venue after the festivities.
g. Establishing a Lost & Found for the inevitable misplaced items of personal property.
2. Hare responsibilities do not include the actual conduct of hash business. This is the sole purview of the Hash Mismanagement.
Being A Pack Member
Ok. So you aren’t the Hare. What do you do? Just show up and run? Yeah, pretty much. But being part of the pack has its responsibilities, too.
Finding Trail- Well, that’s the point, isn’t it? Most of the time, our friendly FRBs (Front Running Bastards) will do the work for you. But every once in a while, if the Hares do their job right, you will find yourself at the front looking for trail. Be aware of hashmarks - they can be on the road, side-walks, telephone poles, curbs, trees, signs, buildings, fences, under vehicles, walls, and other structures. Remember if you run out of trail (no more hashmarks) go back to the last hashmark made by the hares and try to find the trail from that point.
On occasion a hare may draw a diagram or write a message to indicate the trail (normally to change directions or cross open areas or roads) or "Go to the third building and turn left".
Other pack members may call out to you to ask if you are on trail. If you hear “Are You?”, they are looking for clues to trail. If you have found trail marks, call out “ON ON” to let them know you are on a trail. If you see a True Trail Arrow, call out “True Trail” and give three blasts on your whistle. If you are still trying to find a trail mark, and someone asks you “Are You?”, reply with “Looking” to let them know you are not on trail, either.
USE OF WHISTLE- Whistles are used to simulate the baying of the hounds. Use of the whistle is an important part of the Hash Trail; therefore, it is every hasher's responsibility to use the whistle as indicated below.
- Every hasher, after their first trail, is required to have a whistle at all hashes. A no-blow is a seasoned hasher who fails to bring a whistle.
- Hashers should give two short blasts on their whistle when they spot powder or hashmarks. First time hashers should yell out "on-on" when they see powder.
- Hashers should yell out in a highly dedicated manner "true trail" when they see true trail, and/or give three short blasts with their whistles.
- Hashers should give two short blasts on the whistle when they see an intersection and yell out "intersection".
- Hashers should give one long blast on the whistle when they spot a BT and yell out "BT" or "Bad Trail".
- Hashers should use their whistles to a$$ist fellow hashers. Unless you know you are the DFL, blow your whistle to let others behind you know where trail is. This is helpful when the pack gets separated on a long trail, or on night trails.
The Down Downs
The Hash is about socializing and having fun. But it’s also about honoring Hash Traditions and recognizing good deeds and bad. So, enjoy yourself at the finish, have a frosty beverage or two with your fellow hasher, and join in the circle and listen to the Hashmeister when the Down Downs begin. Its frustrating for everyone when 10 people are yelling “Hash Hush” repeatedly, and 5-10 people continue talking. If you don’t want to participate in the circle and the down-downs, you can leave early. Generally, the Hashmeister will start the down-downs shortly after the DFL arrives.
1. Recoginizing the Hares. The Hashmeister starts the down-downs by calling the Hares forward. The pack will award them with their down-down.
2. Judging the Trail. This is supposed to be a moment to acknowledge how well the Hares did their job. Most of the time, this turns into a bitch session about the fact that the SOB hares failed to lay the perfect trail. If they did lay a perfect trail, someone will still bitch about something. They are gonna drink, so try to give them an honest a$$essment of how well they did their job.
3. Virgins. The HM will bring forward any virgins that have been brought. They will introduce themselves to the pack, as well as inform us of the person that brought them. Females may be asked to show the goods. Males, depending on the mood of the females, may also be asked.
4. Returners: Any backslider who has missed more than 3 hashes will be brought forward to do a down-down for leaving us for so long.
5. Anniversaries: Hashers reaching a new milestone in no-lifedom will also be awarded a down-down.
6. Headbands: Hashers receiving new headbands will be awarded a down-down.
7. Trail Violations: All members of the pack who forget to wear a whistle on trail, forget their headband, wear new shoes, a foofy outfit, or any other Hashgression the pack feels worthy of awarding a down-down for. If you wear new shoes, don’t be surprised to do a down-down from one of them. Also at this time, the Wanker unfortunate enough to hold the Hash!t can ask the Hashmeister to call out for nominations for a new Hash!t owner. The Hash!t is generally awarded to a Hasher who has done something really stupid on trail. It is NOT awarded to a Hasher for doing something stupid away from the Hash. Stupidity in the Hash is encouraged and rewarded. Stupidity in Real Life carries its own rewards. The Pack votes on the awarding of the Hash!t. Once awarded to a Hasher, the Hash!t must be carried by the poor wanker at all times during a Hash. Serious punishment can occur to the unlucky Hasher that fails to protect his Hash!t.
8. Names: A new hasher, after completing 6 runs (including Haring at least 1) is eligible to be named. The Religious Advisor will call the pack together, and ask the NFN (No f*cking Name) where they are from, where they work, what fetishes they have, etc. to find out about the person. The pack can ask questions as well, and are encouraged to do so. When naming someone, the goal is to find a unique name that is connected to that person in some way. Sexual Innuendo in the name is highly encouraged. Graphic names that make Larry Flynt blush generally are frowned upon. The general idea is to give someone a humorous, bawdy name—not label them with something disgusting or pornographic that will embarra$$ them to the point of not returning. Names are generally not changed once given. However, there are exceptions to the rule. Humorous incidents at Hashes can often result in a name change. Or, if you are absolutely disgusted with your name, talk to the Hashmeister after a Hash, and arrangements will be made to change it. After all, we want you to come back again.
9. Announcements: Items regarding the next hash, future events (road trips, red dress runs, etc) are made at this time. Pack members can make announcements in the circle by asking the Hashmeister for a Point of Lager. The Hashmeister will announce the location of the On-After at this point as well. The On-After is the bar or other location that the Hash will retire to after the run. No beer is provided by the Hash at the On-After, and participation is strictly voluntary.
10. Reverence: The Circle is closed by giving Hash Reverence. Hats are taken off, vessels are put down, and a rousing group sing-a-long of “Swing Low, Sweet Chariot” closes out the Hash.